Since its foundation in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has developed expertise in gold craftsmanship, fashioning this precious material into a wide range of shapes and textures. In the 1920s, contours of motifs within certain platinum pieces were enhanced by a beadlike effect. From this jewelry savoir-faire emerged the Couscous creations in 1948, presenting yellow gold crafted into small beads. From nature-inspired motifs to abstract patterns,these pieces illustrate the diversity of the Maison’s sources of inspiration, using precious spheres to textured ornamental details. Alongside the Couscous creations, the Maison crafted golden beads in various forms, sometimes incrusted with diamonds as exemplified by the Mimosa pieces, or in textured and hollow form as shown in the Small Sphere necklace.

Van Cleef & Arpels presents the Gold Beads by Van Cleef & Arpels patrimony exhibition

Held at Les Salons Dubai Opera from February 16th to June 30th, 2026, Van Cleef & Arpels presents a patrimonial exhibition dedicated to one of its most emblematic savoir-faire: the art of gold beads. Bringing together 39 patrimonial creations and 10 archives, the exhibition explores the origins, evolution, and enduring legacy of this distinctive design, from historic Couscous pieces to contemporary expressions embodied in the Perlée collection. 

Mimosa earrings, circa 1948 Yellow gold, diamonds Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

The exhibition traces this creative lineage through a series of thematic showcases. Early highlights include Mimosa earrings and clips from 1948, where clusters of gold spheres punctuated with diamonds capture the lightness and joyful essence of mimosa flowers.
Bracelets from the 1940s reinterpret earlier tassel designs through generous volumes, curved silhouettes, and gold spheres. A technical focus is dedicated to the Couscous jewels, first introduced in 1948 and now considered emblematic of the Maison’s heritage. The main characteristic of these creations is the succession of small gold beads creating a textured effect. Each one is individually crafted by the jeweler, then hand-polished through multiple steps to achieve a perfectly smooth and luminous surface. 

Notable pieces include the 14th of July Couscous bracelet (1950) and the Couscous wristwatch (1949). These pieces have been a major source of inspiration for the Perlée contemporary jewelry collection.The exhibition also showcases the Maison’s dialogue between beaded gold and floral inspiration, notably in the Couscous Bagatelle necklace from 1949. It is adorned with yellow gold beads around the neckline, while the central section is a rigid, curved tube featuring nine stylized flowers in rubies, sapphires, and diamonds, echoing the Hawaii fleurettes launched in 1938. The theme of transformability, central to Van Cleef & Arpels’ identity, is illustrated through two Couscous bracelets from 1950 that can be converted into a necklace, as well as modular compositions designed to adapt to the wearer.

Couscous Bagatelle necklace, 1949 Yellow gold, platinum, rubies, sapphires, diamonds Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

Moving into the 1960s and 1970s, the exhibition highlights Van Cleef & Arpels’ experimentation with color, texture, and form. Pieces such as the Valmy bracelet and earrings, and the Twist creations, explore geometric rhythms, dynamic movement, and bold material contrasts. Beaded gold extends beyond floral and abstract motifs to animal figures, including the Little Doe clip (1956) and the French Poodle clip (1953), where gold spheres represent fur or curly hair.

Little Doe clip, 1956 Yellow gold, rubies Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

Complementing the jewelry selection, a dedicated archival section presents gouache designs and technical drawings. Shown to scale, these documents offer rare insight into the Maison’s creative process, revealing how light, texture, and structure are envisioned long before a jewel comes to life.

Through this rich ensemble of historic masterpieces and archival material, Gold Beads by Van Cleef & Arpels celebrates enduring fascination with gold as a living material, capable of capturing light and movement. From the pioneering Couscous creations to the contemporary Perlée collection, the exhibition invites visitors to discover a lineage of craftsmanship where tradition and modernity are united by poetic design. 

Couscous bracelet design, circa 1950
Van Cleef & Arpels Archives

Van Cleef & Arpels was born in Paris, at 22 Place Vendôme, in 1906. Its founding resulted from the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Esther (known as Estelle) Arpels, both from families of jewelry merchants. The Maison’s sources of inspiration-including love, nature, couture and dance 
open the gate to an enchanting universe.

Guided by excellence, Van Cleef & Arpels is distinguished for its gemstones selected according to the most stringent criteria, its expert savoir-faire and its taste for innovation, expressed throughout its High Jewelry, Jewelry and Watchmaking  ollections. Today, its style, embodied in numerous signatures such as the Mystery Set technique, the Minaudière, the Zip necklace and the Alhambra motif, continues to blend inventiveness and poetry. It currently operates 180 boutiques globally, including 20 locations in the Middle East.